bcachefs: bch2_lookup() gives better error message on inode not found

bcachefs: bch2_lookup() gives better error message on inode not found

When a dirent points to a missing inode, we really should print out the
dirent.

This requires quite a bit of refactoring, but there's some other
benefits: we now do the entire looup (dirent and inode) in a single
btree transaction, and copy to the VFS inode with btree locks still
held, like the create path.

Signed-off-by: Kent Overstreet <kent.overstreet@linux.dev>